Free design

Under the stairs

Pull-outs, cupboards and coat space for the gap under your stairs

The triangle under the stairs is often the deepest storage in the house, and the hardest to use. Made to the slope, it can hold far more than a jumble of coats.

Plan it in the plannerGet a free design

White pull-out under-stairs drawers beside an oak staircase

Get a free under-stairs designSend a few photos and rough sizes. We'll send back a design and a price range, free.

Get my free designPlan it in 3D

Six things the space can become

  • Pull-out drawers

    Tall and short pull-outs that bring the back of the space to you. Nothing gets lost at the far end.

  • Cupboards with doors

    Doors cut to the angle of the stairs, with shelves inside for the hoover, the ironing board and the toolbox.

  • Coats and shoes

    Hooks and a rail at the tall end, shoe shelves and a bench seat at the low end.

    Boot rooms

  • A mini utility

    Room for a washing machine or dryer, with a worktop over it, where the plumbing allows.

    Utility rooms

  • A desk nook

    A small worktop and shelves for a laptop and the household paperwork.

    Home offices

  • A drinks cupboard

    Wine racks, glass shelves and a soft light behind a door.

    Dry bars

White pull-out under-stairs drawers beside an oak staircase

Pull-outs or cupboards?

It depends where you open it from

Under most staircases the space is about as wide as the stairs, often 800–900 mm, and runs 2,000–3,000 mm back under the flight.

Open along the side

If the side of the stairs faces the hall, pull-out drawers work best. Each one slides out sideways into the hall, so the full depth is in reach. Tall pull-outs go at the high end; low drawers follow the slope down.

Open from the end

If you get in through a door at the tall end, the space is a deep tunnel. A wide pull-out on runners, or a cupboard with shallow shelves either side, stops it becoming somewhere things disappear.

Measure it in five readings

Rough figures are fine for the free design. We take precise ones later.

  1. Width

    Across the opening, wall to wall or wall to the stair edge.

  2. Depth

    From the front of the opening to the back wall.

  3. Tall end

    Floor to the underside of the stairs at the highest point.

  4. Low end

    Where the slope meets the floor, and the height at a few points along the way.

  5. What's in there now

    Meters, the consumer unit, pipes and sockets. Photograph them.

Our measuring guide

Try your own wall sizesSee it to scale in 3D, in the finish you like, then send it to a designer.

Open the plannerOrder free samples

Typical figures under a UK staircase

A straight flight in a two-storey house, measured from the hall floor.

Width
Usually 800–900 mm, the width of the stairs.
Floor to floor
Around 2,600 mm, so the tall end has 2,000 mm or more of standing height.
Pitch
Most stairs climb at about 40°, which sets the angle of every door and drawer front.
Low end
Below about 400 mm high, the space is best as a shallow drawer or a fixed panel.
Pull-out depth
Pull-outs from the side are planned to the space's width, so a 900 mm wide space takes pull-outs about 850 mm deep.

Example figures only. Winders, half landings and older stairs vary, so measure yours.

A girl in school uniform taking shoes from a pull-out under-stairs drawer while her mum holds her coat

How you'll use it

Out of the door on time, for once.

Coats on hooks, shoes on shelves, bags on a peg by the front door. When the hallway has a place for everything, the morning rush gets shorter and the hall stays clear.

And the hoover finally lives somewhere you can reach it.

Worth checking first

  • Meters and the consumer unitThey must stay easy to reach. We plan a door or removable panel in front of them.
  • A washing machineNeeds water, a waste, a socket and ventilation. Your plumber and a qualified electrician do the connections; we plan the space around the appliance's fitting sizes.
  • Damp in older housesAn under-stairs space against an outside wall can be damp. Sort that first, and we'll leave an air gap behind the units.
  • Three-storey homesAfter a loft conversion, the stairs may be part of a protected escape route. Check with building control before removing any panelling.
  • The side panelMany new-build stairs are boxed in with plasterboard. It can often be opened up, but ask a builder before you cut.
  • FlooringTell us if new flooring is going down. We measure from the finished floor.

Like what you see?A designer will draw it for your room, free and with no obligation.

Get my free designTalk to us

Under-stairs questions

Anything else, send us a photo of your stairs and ask.

How heavy can a pull-out drawer be?

The runners are full-extension and soft-close, and are chosen to suit what goes in. Tell us if you're storing something heavy, like tins, tools or a vacuum, and the design will allow for it.

Can the doors match the rest of the hallway?

They can. Pick from the full range of finishes, and choose push-to-open doors so nothing sticks out into a narrow hall. See finishes.

Could I fit it myself, or do I need a joiner?

If you're handy, yes. Every panel arrives labelled, and the angled pieces come already cut to your drawings, so there's no sawing on site.

What if my stairs turn a corner?

Winders and half landings change the shape underneath, but it can still be fitted. Send photos from a few angles and we'll work from those.

Do I need to empty it before you measure?

It helps. We need to see the back wall, the floor and the underside of the stairs.

Free design

Open the door and take a photo

Add a rough width, depth and height at the tall end. We'll design the pull-outs and cupboards and send a price range, free.

Get a free designTry it in the planner